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The Real History of Coco Chanel and Christian Dior’s Wartime Activities, 2024 The New Look 

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When we think of iconic fashion designers, names like Coco Chanel and Christian Dior immediately come to mind. Their creations have shaped the world of fashion, setting trends that still resonate today. But behind the glamour and elegance, there is a darker side to their stories. In the midst of World War II, these renowned designers found themselves embroiled in the turmoil of the Nazi occupation of France. Apple TV+ series “The New Look” delves into this murky history, shedding light on the choices and compromises made by Chanel and Dior during these tumultuous times. In this article, we will explore the real wartime activities of Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and others involved in the fashion industry, providing a comprehensive look at their lives and the impact of their decisions.

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Coco Chanel: A Complex Figure

The Rise of Coco Chanel

Coco Chanel, born Gabrielle Chanel, was a trailblazing designer known for her chic style and revolutionary contributions to fashion. Before the war, she had liberated women from the constraints of corsets and introduced more practical and comfortable designs. Her fashion house, Chanel, became synonymous with elegance and sophistication.

Chanel and the Nazi Regime

During the Nazi occupation of Paris, Chanel’s actions and associations raised eyebrows. She closed her couture house and moved into the Ritz Paris hotel, which served as the Nazi headquarters. Chanel’s relationship with German intelligence officer Baron Hans Günther von Dincklage, known as “Spatz,” further complicated her image.

Chanel’s ties to the Nazis extended beyond mere associations. She used her connections to free her nephew André Palasse, who was a German prisoner-of-war. Chanel’s involvement with the Nazis went even further when she embarked on a covert mission known as “Modellhut,” acting as a go-between for high-ranking Nazis and British officials. However, her plans were foiled when her co-conspirator betrayed her, leading to her return to Paris after the war.

The Controversy Surrounding Chanel

The real extent of Chanel’s collaboration with the Nazis remains a subject of debate among historians. Some argue that she was a genuine supporter of the Nazi regime, while others suggest that she was merely an opportunist trying to protect her interests. Regardless, Chanel’s wartime activities have cast a shadow over her legacy, tarnishing her image as a fashion icon.

Christian Dior-Coco Chanel

Christian Dior: A Visionary Designer Caught in Turmoil

Dior’s Designing for Nazi Wives

Christian Dior, on the other hand, was a rising star in the fashion world during the war. He worked for Lucien Lelong’s fashion house and, like many designers at the time, was tasked with creating dresses for Nazi wives and girlfriends. However, Dior’s motivations for doing so were more complex than they might seem at first glance.

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Dior saw his work as a way to support his family and protect the French fashion industry. With many designers forced out of the country, the Germans aimed to relocate the fashion hub from Paris to Berlin and Vienna. Dior and other designers, including Lucien Lelong, traveled to Berlin to convince the Germans to leave the French fashion industry intact. Their efforts succeeded, but at a cost.

The Birth of “The New Look”

After the war, Dior launched his own fashion house and introduced his groundbreaking collection in 1947. Dubbed “The New Look,” it featured cinched waists, full skirts, and a return to ultra-feminine extravagance. The collection was a departure from the practicality and simplicity of wartime fashion, and it marked a new era of opulence and elegance.

Dior’s designs were met with both praise and criticism. While some hailed his creations as a breath of fresh air, others, including Coco Chanel, saw them as a step backward. Chanel famously disparaged Dior’s designs, calling his models “prisoners” and dismissing his work as uncomfortable and impractical.

The Complex Choices of Fashion Icons

Moral Dilemmas and Compromises

The wartime activities of Chanel and Dior raise important questions about the choices individuals faced during such challenging times. Both designers were confronted with moral dilemmas and had to make compromises to survive and protect their interests.

For Dior, designing dresses for Nazi wives was a means of supporting his family and safeguarding the French fashion industry. While his actions may be seen as morally ambiguous, his motivations were not purely driven by profit or collaboration.

Chanel’s involvement with the Nazis is more controversial. Her relationships with high-ranking Nazis and her covert mission to broker a separate peace agreement with England have tainted her legacy. However, it is important to understand the complexity of the circumstances and the difficult choices individuals like Chanel faced during the war.

The Legacy of Chanel and Dior

Despite the controversy surrounding their wartime activities, Chanel and Dior left an indelible mark on the world of fashion. Their designs continue to inspire and influence designers today. It is essential to acknowledge the full scope of their legacies, understanding the nuances of their lives and the complex historical context in which they operated.


“The New Look” series on Apple TV+ sheds light on the real wartime activities of Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and other fashion industry figures during World War II. Their stories reveal the moral dilemmas and compromises made by individuals caught in the midst of a global conflict. While their actions may be subject to debate and criticism, it is crucial to examine their lives in the context of the challenging times they faced. Ultimately, understanding the real history of Coco Chanel and Christian Dior provides a deeper appreciation for their contributions to fashion and the complexities of the human experience.


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